[03] IN-FLOOR RADIANT HEAT MOISTURE BARRIERS AND RETARDERS

The type of moisture barrier is usually based on the installation method and substrate. Different types of moisture barriers produce the same result by doing it in different ways. Check with local building codes and the manufacturer of the radiant heat systems for recommendations.

RIGID CORE VINYL WITH ATTACHED CUSHION (IN-FLOOR RADIANT HEAT):

• Below, On, or Above Grade Concrete & Gypcrete Slabs: Cover the entire slab substrate with 6 mil plastic with all seams overlapping 12” and taped with moisture-proof tape.
• Wood Subfloors: A moisture barrier is not required over a finished basement or crawl space that meets all of the “General Jobsite/Home Condition” requirements.

Prop 65 Warning: Drilling, sawing, sanding, or machining wood products generates dust, a substance known to the state of California to cause cancer. Use caution during the removal or sanding of existing flooring or other building materials as these may contain hazardous fumes, and chemicals, or generate harmful dust. Check the substrate for any health hazards. Always wear safety equipment and an approved dust mask.

[04] GENERAL INSTALLATION SPECS

• Avoid installing flooring plank pieces less than 8” in total length against walls or on ends. Stagger end joints no less than 8”.
• It will generally be necessary to see some flooring panels during installation. To obtain a clean cut, the pattern side should face down when using a jigsaw, saber saw, or circular handsaw and face up when you use a handsaw, table saw, or crosscut saw.
• Before installation begins, use a jamb saw to undercut all door casings (1/16” between the door casing and the top of flooring material) and vertical objects coming off the floor. To achieve the correct height, combine a piece of the vapor retardant and flooring to use as a guide for the saw. Be sure to clean out all debris from under the jambs. This will allow the flooring to slide underneath the object for a clean, professional look.
• Contractors: When setting door casings post-installation, make sure there is adequate space for the flooring material to expand and contract without any hindrance.
• Never fasten nails/screw anything through the flooring into the substrate. The floor MUST be allowed to float freely.
• Do not caulk the floor with any permanent or fixed object. The floor must be allowed to float freely.

[05] GENERAL SUBSTRATE CONDITIONS

• All substrates must be flat, structurally sound, and free of dust, loose particles, paint, and drywall compounds.
• Sand and/or flatten the substrate to within a 3/16” dip or rise in a 10’ or 1/8” dip or rise in a 6’ radius.
• If leveling of the substrate is required, use only cement-based leveling compounds. Be sure to follow the leveling compounds manufacturer installation guidelines.
• To prep or flatten the substrate, you can use a hand-held angle grinder with special cupped diamond grinding wheels and vacuum attachments. It can be rented or purchased from your local rental or home-building center. This system works well with any type of substrate. Use precautions when sanding any surface, check the substrate out for any health hazards, and always wear safety equipment and approved dust masks.
• Vinyl flooring can be installed over wood subfloors that are ON or ABOVE GRADE; vinyl flooring can be installed over concrete or gypcrete substrates that are BELOW, ON, or ABOVE GRADE.
• The substrate, when walked on, must not exceed 1/4” deflection in a 6’ radius, or more than a 1/16” between the floor joist. If it does, this condition must be corrected before any product installation begins. The subfloor will not stiffen up after the flooring is installed (See approved substrates).
• Always check and repair any loose, delaminating, or broken substrates.

[06] APPROVED SUBSTRATES

PLYWOOD/OSB: 

• Do not install overwood subfloors that test above 12% MC (moisture content).
• Note: If installing new wood subfloors from lumber yards, be sure to test the MC. Typically, they have higher levels of moisture and may need to acclimate longer.
• Fix all squeaks coming from the wood subfloor before installation. Use wood screws, a minimum of 2-1/2” long,  fastened every 6” through the wood subfloor into the joist. Squeaks in the subfloor will not go away after the floor has been installed.
• The acceptable minimum thickness of the wood subfloor is determined by the distance between the joists/trusses. Vertical deflection must be under 1/4” in a 6’ radius when walked across.

• • When joists are 16” o/c or less, the minimum acceptable thickness is 5/8” CDX plywood or nominal 3/4”, OSB 40LB Minimum density, T&G, with a TECO or APA certification stamp.

  • When joists are 16” o/c up to 19.2” o/c, the minimum acceptable thickness is 3/4” plywood or nominal 3/4”, OSB 40LB Minimum density, T&G, with a TECO or APA certification stamp.

  • When joists are 19.2” o/c up to 24” o/c, the minimum acceptable thickness is 7/8” plywood or nominal 1”, OSB 40LB Minimum density,  T&G, with a TECO or APA certification stamp

CURED CONCRETE/GYPCRETE:  (6 MIL PLASTIC VAPOR BARRIER IS RECOMMENDED TO AVOID MOISTURE-RELATED ISSUES)

• Cured concrete must be over 3000 PSI. Cured gypcrete must be over 2500 PSI.
• All concrete or gypcrete substrates must be cured for a minimum of 60 days before any flooring product is installed over them.
• Concrete moisture testing should be performed by ASTM F1869 Calcium Chloride Tests with levels NOT exceeding 5LBS per 1000 ft2 for 24 hours, or an ASTM F2170 In-Situ relative humidity test with readings exceeding 80%.
• Gypcrete dries very fast so Maxxon recommends using the mat test or Delmhorst #B2100 moisture meter.
• Test the concrete subfloor for alkalinity. The pH of the floor should be between 5 and 9.

PARTICLE BOARD (UNDERLAYMENT-GRADE):

• The only manufacturer-recommended installation method that can be used directly over underlayment-grade particle board is the floating method as long as there are no current or future moisture concerns from below or above. If moisture comes in contact with the particle board, it may swell. The product warranty does not cover subfloor upheavals.

OTHER APPROVED SUBSTRATES (FLOATING ONLY): (ALL MOISTURE CONTENT, FLATNESS AND DEFLECTION REQUIREMENTS WOULD APPLY.)

• Ceramic, porcelain, or natural tile with the grout joints filled flat with Portland-based patching material.
• A single layer of clean, well-adhered, non-cushioned, full-spread glue sheet vinyl or VCT. All embossing must be feathered and filled with a suitable filler patching compound.

UNACCEPTABLE SUBSTRATES:

• Solid or engineered wood floors over concrete or with any texture.
• Floors that are floating, cushioned, perimeter glued, carpet, carpet pad, lumber subfloor, additional cushions or underlayment, or subfloors that are sticky.
• ACQ-treated plywood or exterior low-density OSB sheeting is used for general construction.

[07] ACCLIMATION (FOR RADIANT HEAT SEE “IN-FLOOR RADIANT HEAT ACCLIMATION REQUIREMENTS” SECTION)

• Installing flooring before it has properly acclimated will greatly increase the chances of expansion and contraction issues and may make it more difficult to install.
• Do not deliver the flooring to the job site until all environmental conditions have been met.
• Acclimate for a minimum of 48 hours in the temperature-controlled room where it will be installed.
• During acclimation, do not remove the material from the box or lean boxes on walls. Only stack the boxes squarely on top of each other, no taller than 3’, and keep the stacks a minimum of 3” apart.
• During installation floor temperature should be within 65-80°F.
• Never cover the flooring before, during, or after installation with any plastic or tar paper. It must be allowed to breathe. Use only breathable floor-protective construction paper (FortiBoard) to protect the flooring.
• Propane heaters are not an approved source of heat and can give off extreme amounts of moisture. They also do not provide a reliable and consistent source of heat. In fact, for every gallon of propane or kerosene that is burned, they will put approximately 1.1 gallons of moisture into the ambient space. The manufacturer warranty will be void if the job site/ home heating and cooling system is not fully operational at the time of installation.

[08] EXPANSION REQUIREMENTS

• Leave a minimum of 1/4” expansion gap for all installations under 20’ lengthwise or widthwise. For installations exceeding 20’ lengthwise or widthwise, add 1/16” per additional 5’of length or width, up to 5/8”. For example: 25 linear feet would require a 5/16” expansion gap.
• Transition strips/breaks are required on installation exceeding 50 feet in length or width; for installations over in-floor radiant heat, transition strips are required if exceeding 40 linear feet.
• Never install cabinetry, islands, or other permanent fixtures on top of a floated floor.
• Never use nails to secure anything to the floor. The floor must be allowed to float.
• Leave the required expansion gap around all walls, tubs/showers, plumbing fixtures, large Sub Zero style refrigerators, exterior doors, etc.
• Once the floor installation is complete, remove all spacers that were used to maintain the expansion gap.
• Heavy furniture (500 lbs or more) may obstruct the free, natural movement of a floated floor. Restricting this movement in certain areas can lead to problems such as buckling or separation when the floor experiences natural expansion and/or contraction.

[09 FL] APPROVED  FLOATING METHOD (ELEMENTS I4F TRIPLE LOCK SYSTEM)

The I4F Triple Lock system is a patented locking profile for installing flooring planks without using glue.

• The panels are clicked together on the short side until the row is completed then the entire row is engaged on the long side.
• Be sure to inspect all edges and remove debris from the click before installing.
• Either side of the panels is engaged at an angle of 20 to 30° to the panel already installed. Move the panel gently up and down while exerting forward pressure. The panels will automatically click into place. Then lay the plank down to the floor.
• As you install the click flooring, ensure all seams are fully engaged before moving on to the next row. Visually, a row can appear to be engaged but is not. To avoid this, use an approved tapping block to tap the short side and then the long side of the planks together. This will securely engage the locking system.

[10] HOW TO PROTECT THE FLOOR DURING & AFTER  INSTALLATION (DURING CONSTRUCTION)

• After each section of flooring has been installed and thoroughly cleaned, cover the floor with breathable construction paper (FortiBoard). Do not apply the tape directly to the surface of the flooring, as it may damage the finish.
• During construction, vacuum the floor as often as it takes to keep the floor free of dirt and construction debris. Never use a beater brush.
• If drywall repairs or any type of sanding is needed, thoroughly cover the floor. These types of dust and grit can damage the floor’s finish and are very difficult to remove if it gets into the joints. Do not wet mop these types of dust. Always use a vacuum without a beater brush to remove any construction dust if needed.
• Before furniture goes onto the new floor, apply approved 3/16” thick heavy-duty felt pads under all furniture feet.
• Furniture with metal or hard plastic rollers or casters is NOT APPROVED for use on Vinyl flooring.
• Never roll or drag anything heavy over the new floor. It will make indentations or scratches on the surface. Always use a soft-tire dolly when moving objects a carpet piece turned upside-down or an air-sled.