[01] GENERAL JOBSITE/HOME CONDITION

TO AVOID COSTLY INSTALLATION MISTAKES, ONLY INSTALL FLOORING IN ROOMS WITH ADEQUATE LIGHTING CONDITIONS.

Important: The requirements listed below are considered standard practices for the flooring industry and are required by most building codes. Following these simple guidelines will greatly extend the life of any fixture in the job site/home. Local building codes may vary and will prevail.

The job site/homeowner’s designated installer is responsible for inspecting flooring before installation. Inspect every plank for inconsistency with the finish, texture, milling, color, graining, tongue and groove integrity, and dimensions. Also, check the suitability of the flooring product to its environment. Flooring products installed with pre-existing defects or incorrectly acclimated CANNOT be claimed after installation.

Verify there are enough materials to complete the job with a minimum of 2% extra for future plank replacements or a minimum of one box, whichever is greater.

Allow a minimum of 5% waste for culling, shipping damage, and on-the-job waste.

Drainage from roofs, rain gutters, and other sources of moisture around the job site/home must be directed away from the site.

If there is a crawl space, make sure there is at least an 18” clearance from the dirt to the bottom of the beams. Remove all cardboard from the concrete walls, pillars, and footings, as it will trap and hold moisture. The entire crawl space must be covered with a minimum of 6 MIL plastic (puncture resistant) with all seams overlapped 18” and fully sealed with moisture-proof tape.

To prevent excessive moisture buildup, all crawl spaces must have a minimum of 1.5 square feet of ventilation for every 100 square feet of crawl space at the house’s exterior for cross ventilation, or an air exchanger will be needed. It may be necessary to install temperature/humidity-activated exhaust fans to create air movement in the crawl space.

Drainage from roofs, rain gutters, and other sources of moisture around the job site/home must be directed away from the site.

All exterior doors, windows, drywall, painting, and venting must be properly installed before the delivery of the flooring to the job site/home. Do not store material in exterior sheds, garages, or rooms that are not temperature-controlled.

All heating and cooling systems are required to be installed and functioning for at least 14 days before the installation of the flooring begins.

Use a hygrometer that reads temperature and RH (relative humidity) to check job site/home heating and cooling systems. They must be able to maintain a minimum of 35% to 85% RH and 65 to 85°F before, during, and after the flooring installation.

Small humidifiers are not capable of properly maintaining the humidity levels in large job sites/homes. Local heating and cooling air service contractors can provide information for automatic humidifiers/dehumidifiers that work with pre-existing heating and cooling systems.

LVP Dryback is intended for interior use only and is suitable for ON or ABOVE GRADE applications.

The substrate surface temperature should never exceed 85°F.

LVP Dryback flooring is not recommended to be installed in any area of the job site/home that has extreme temperature and moisture fluctuations. For example: saunas, hot tub/pool rooms, greenhouses, exterior porches, or garages. The manufacturer does not warrant these types of moisture-related issues or related damage under their warranty.

[02] IN-FLOOR RADIANT HEAT REQUIREMENTS (HYDRONIC SYSTEM ONLY)

Visit www.my-nfp.com for the current list of products that are approved for in-floor radiant heat. There are unique installation requirements for flooring installed over radiant heat. Before installation, it is the responsibility of the job site/homeowner’s designated installer to check with the manufacturer for a current list of approved installation methods and underlayment requirements.

IN-FLOOR RADIANT HEAT SYSTEM REQUIREMENTS:

Only flooring that is marked as approved can be installed over in-floor radiant heat.

Only hydronic in-floor radiant heat systems with failsafe capabilities, to ensure the boiler does not exceed 110°F and the surface temperature does not exceed 85°F, are approved.

Operate the in-floor radiant heat system for at least 14 days before the flooring is installed. All moisture in the substrate MUST be evaporated off. This will also ensure all systems are in good running condition.

To prevent expansion and contraction issues related to the in-floor heat system, a humidity control humidifier must be installed and properly functioning one week before, during, and after the installation for the life of the floor.

Important: Leave a 1/4” expansion gap around all walls, tubs/showers, plumbing fixtures, exterior doors, or large Sub-Zero style refrigerators or appliances.

The in-floor radiant heat systems CANNOT be installed directly below the flooring. The heating element must be embedded a minimum of 1/2” into the concrete, gypcrete, or installed under the wood subfloor. This will ensure the radiant heat is evenly distributed across the substrate before the heat comes into contact with the flooring.

Set the temperature of the radiant heating system to 65°F 48 hours before, during, and 72 hours after installation. The temperature of the radiant heat floor may be gradually increased 72 hours after installation, but the surface temperature should never exceed 85°F.

Note: For best performance, it is recommended to use TUFF GRIP PS-99 Modified Transition PSA Adhesive over subfloors with in-floor radiant heating.

IN-FLOOR RADIANT HEAT ACCLIMATION REQUIREMENTS:

Do not deliver the flooring to the job site until all environmental conditions have been met.

During acclimation, do not remove the material from the box or lean boxes on the walls. Only stack the boxes squarely on top of each other, no taller than 3’, and keep the stacks a minimum of 3” apart.

Acclimate for a minimum of 48 hours in the temperature-controlled room it will be installed in.

48 hours before installation, set the temperature of the radiant heating system to 65°F. This setting must remain during installation and 72 hours after installation is completed. The temperature of the radiant heat floor may be gradually increased 72 hours after installation, but the surface temperature should never exceed 85°F.

To prevent the floor from overheating or trapping moisture, never cover the flooring before, during, or after installation with any type of non-breathable or excessively thick rugs, mats, solid surface items, plastic, or a mattress that is laid directly onto the floor. The floor must be allowed to breathe.

[03] IN-FLOOR RADIANT HEAT MOISTURE BARRIERS AND RETARDERS

The type of moisture barrier needed is usually based on the installation method and substrate. Different types of moisture barriers produce the same result by doing it in different ways. Check with local building codes and the manufacturer of the radiant heat systems for recommendations.

[04] GENERAL INSTALLATION SPECS

Avoid installing flooring plank pieces less than 8” in total length against walls or on ends. Stagger end joints no less than 8”.

Before installation begins, use a jamb saw to undercut all door casings (1/16” between the door casing and the top of flooring material) and vertical objects coming off the floor. To achieve the correct height, use a piece of flooring as a guide for the saw. Be sure to clean out all debris from under the jambs. This will allow the flooring to slide underneath the object for a clean, professional look.

Contractors: When setting door casings post-installation of the flooring material, make sure there is adequate space for the flooring material to expand and contract without any hindrance.  A minimum of 1/16” spacing is required.

For an ideal finish around pipes, use rosettes in places where profiles or skirting cannot be placed.

Conditions must be between 65° to 85°F (18° to 29°C) with 35% to 85% RH for a minimum of 48 hours before, during and after installation.

Confirm the quantity of NFP Dryback flooring and adhesive is sufficient for the area to be installed. Check material for visual defects before installation. Installation of flooring acknowledges acceptance of materials.

Make sure all surfaces to be covered are completely clean, dry, and smooth, and that all necessary subfloor preparation has been properly completed and documented.

Perform final acceptance inspection of a substrate according to the moisture barrier system used.

Protect adjacent work areas and finished surfaces from damage that could occur during product installation.

Dryback should be the last material installed, to prevent other trades from disrupting the installation and adhesive set-up, and to prevent damage to the floor.

Dryback must be rolled with a 100lb roller, according to the adhesive manufacturer’s recommendation.

Do not caulk the floor with any permanent or fixed object. The floor must be allowed to float freely.

[05] GENERAL SUBSTRATE CONDITIONS

REMOVAL OF EXISTING RESILIENT FLOORING: 

The manufacturer recommends following the Resilient Floor Covering guidelines for the removal of existing tile and mastic. Existing resilient flooring and adhesive should be mechanically removed. The use of adhesive removers or solvents is strictly prohibited. Any mastic remover residue, including soy or citrus products, can attack and break down the new adhesive, resulting in planks releasing from the subfloor. Floor covering warranties do not cover instances where adhesive removers or solvents cause damage to the flooring or installation failure.

All substrates must be flat and free of dust, loose particles, paint, and drywall compound, and must be structurally sound.

Sand and/or flatten the substrate to within a 3/16” dip or rise in a 10’ or 1/8” dip or rise in a 6’ radius.

If leveling of the substrate is required, use only cement-based leveling compounds. Be sure to follow the leveling compounds manufacturer installation guidelines and make sure it is compatible with the adhesive.

To prep or flatten the substrate you can use hand-held angle grinders with special cupped diamond grinding wheels and vacuum attachments that can be rented or purchased from your local rental or home-building center. This system works well with any type of substrate. Use precautions when sanding any surface. Check the substrate for any health hazards. Always wear safety equipment and an approved dust mask.

Dryback flooring can be installed over approved wood sub-floors that are ON or ABOVE GRADE and over concrete or gypcrete substrates that are ON or ABOVE GRADE.

The substrate, when walked on, must not exceed 1/4” deflection in a 6’ radius, or more than a 1/16” between the floor joist. If it does, this condition must be corrected before any product installation begins. If not corrected, the subfloor will not stiffen up after the flooring is installed

Always check and repair any loose, delaminating, or broken substrates.

WHEN USING TUFFGRIP LSF PRIMER: 

All substrates or surfaces must be level, dry, clean, smooth, and structurally sound. They shall be free of any foreign materials that might prevent proper absorption, including dust, dirt, solvent, paint, wax, oil, grease, residual adhesive, adhesive removers, incompatible sealers, fire-retardant chemicals, fungicides, release agents, alkaline salts, excessive carbonation, laitance, mold, mildew, and curing, sealing, hardening or parting compounds.

The substrate, TuffGRIP LSF Primer, adhesive, and flooring must be acclimated for at least 48 hours before the installation begins.

APPROVED SUBSTRATES:
       Please see a complete list of approved substrates on the TuffGrip LSF Primer spec sheet.

APA underlayment grade plywood and OSB

Association grade particleboard

Cement backer board

Concrete and radiant heated subfloors that do not exceed 85°F (30°C)

Gypsum and lightweight concrete

[06] APPROVED SUBSTRATES

PLYWOOD/OSB: 

Do not install overwood subfloors that test above 12% MC (moisture content).

Use only American Plywood Association (APA) rated underlayment grade plywood, with a minimum grade of “BB” or “CC”, and a minimum ¼” thickness. Allow expansion spacing between plywood butt joints of 1/16 or follow the manufacturer’s instructions. When installing underlayment, stagger cross-joints 4’ on an 8’ panel (minimum 16”), lightly butt the panels, and set fasteners flush or slightly below the surface level of the underlayment. Fill underlayment seams, nail holes, and any indentations with an approved Portland Cement-type floor patch, allow the recommended drying time, and sand the patch until smooth. Otherwise, use manufacturer-certified poplar, birch, and spruce plywood underlayment, with a fully sanded face and exterior glue. All dust must be COMPLETELY removed to ensure a strong adhesive bond. Vacuum or sweep thoroughly, then apply adhesive.

Note: If installing new wood subfloors from lumber yards, be sure to test the MC (moisture content). Typically, they have higher levels of moisture and may need to acclimate longer.

Fix all squeaks coming from the wood subfloor before installation. Use wood screws, a minimum of 2-1/2” lengths, fastened every 6” through the wood subfloor into the joist. Squeaks in the subfloor will not go away after the floor has been installed. Then fill all holes and voids with an approved cement-based patch.

When joists are 16” o/c or less; the minimum acceptable thickness is 5/8” CDX plywood or nominal 3/4”,  OSB 40 LB Minimum density, T&G, with a TECO or APA certification stamp.

When joists are 16” o/c up to 19.2” o/c; the minimum acceptable thickness is 3/4” plywood or nominal 3/4”, OSB 40 LB Minimum density, T&G, with a TECO or APA certification stamp.

When joists are 19.2” o/c up to 24” o/c; the minimum acceptable thickness is 7/8” plywood or nominal 1”, OSB 40 LB Minimum density, T&G, with a TECO or APA certification stamp.

CURED CONCRETE/GYPCRETE:

Cured concrete must be over 3000 PSI. Cured gypcrete must be over 2500 PSI.

All concrete or gypcrete substrates must be cured for a minimum of 90 days before conducting moisture tests and before any flooring product is ever installed over them.

Concrete moisture testing should be performed by ASTM F1869 Calcium Chloride Tests with levels NOT exceeding 3 LBS per 1000 ft2 for 24 hours, or an ASTM F2170 In-Situ relative humidity test with readings exceeding 80%.

Gypcrete dries very fast, it’s recommended to use the mat test or Delmhorst #B2100 moisture meter.

Test the concrete subfloor for alkalinity. (The pH of the floor should be between 5 and 9).

NEW CONCRETE:

New concrete subfloors contain a high percentage of residual moisture. Allow new concrete, including lightweight and gypsum toppings, to cure for at least 90 days before conducting moisture tests. Instead of wet curing, quite often curing agents are applied to concrete slabs to retard the escape of water during the initial curing process. Compounds left on the slab can retard the escape of free water during the drying process and eventually break down over time after the flooring is installed, affecting the integrity of the bond. Solvent-based adhesives will not adhere, and water-based adhesives will not set up and properly cure. Note: In the event of adhesion failure, the responsibility for warranties and performance guarantees rests with the compound manufacturer and not with the flooring manufacturer.

OLD CONCRETE:

Old or existing concrete subfloors may pose more of a risk than new concrete, therefore requiring special attention. Remove existing floor covering, and all traces of old adhesives, paint, or other contaminants by scraping, sanding, grinding, shot blasting, or scarifying the substrate. The use of adhesive removers or solvents in the abatement or removal of existing or old adhesives is prohibited and may void the manufacturer’s warranty.

POWER-TROWELED CONCRETE:

Power-troweled concrete surfaces can be very slick, relatively non-absorbent, and may produce surface laitance. These conditions can hurt the bondability of subfloor preparation materials, and flooring adhesives, and therefore mechanical preparation (such as shot blasting or scarification) is recommended. Always perform bond tests to determine suitability.

LIGHTWEIGHT CONCRETE:

The minimum density of lightweight concrete should be greater than 90 lbs. per cubic foot, with a minimum compression strength of 2,500 psi or greater. Existing lightweight concrete or gypsum substrates may need to be primed before the installation of flooring. Contact the Subfloor Preparation manufacturer for recommendations, and always perform a bond test before proceeding.

IN-FLOOR HEATING:

Radiant heating systems must be cast ½” below the surface of the concrete slab and should be operating for at least 14 days before installing Dryback flooring. Set the temperature of the radiant heating system to 65°F 48 hours before, at all times during, and 72 hours after installation. The temperature of the radiant heat floor may be gradually increased 72 hours after installation, but the surface temperature should never exceed 85°F. Contact the manufacturer of your radiant heating system for further recommendations.

UNDERLAYMENT PANELS:

Underlayment for resilient flooring must be:

Subfloor grade

Structurally sound

Specifically designed and warranted for resilient flooring

Approved by the adhesive manufacturer as a suitable underlayment.

A minimum of ¼” (6mm) thick

Of a smooth surface, to prevent telegraphing

Able to resist indentations

Free of any substances that may cause the flooring to stain

UNACCEPTABLE SUBSTRATES:

Asphalt Tile

Carpeting/Carpet Pad

Cementitious Tile Backer Boards

Chipboard

Cushion-Back Sheet Vinyl

Floating Floors

Glass Mesh Tile Boards

Hardboard

Hardwood

Hardwood – Engineered Hardwood Over Concrete

Masonite

OSB

Parquet

Particleboard ( Unless it is not association grade)

Plywood – Fire-Retardant

Plywood – Knotty

Plywood – Preservative Treated / Treated

Rubber Tile

Self-Stick Tile

Sleeper Substrates

Strip Wood

NATIONAL FLOORING PRODUCTS RECOMMENDS BOTH ARDEX AND SCHÖNOX SUBFLOOR PREPARATION MATERIALS FOR USE WITH DRY BACK LVP FLOORING AND PREVAIL ADHESIVES. PREVAIL ADHESIVES HAVE BEEN TESTED FOR COMPATIBILITY AND PERFORMANCE AND MUST BE USED WITH THE FOLLOWING SUBFLOOR PREPARATION PRODUCTS.

ARDEX:

ARDEX K 15® – Premium Self-Leveling Underlayment

ARDEX V 1200™ – Self-Leveling Flooring Underlayment

ARDEX FEATHER FINISH® – Self-Drying, Cement-Base Finishing Underlayment

ARDEX FORTI FINISH™ – Self-Drying, Reinforced, Cement-Based Finishing Underlayment

ARDEX MC RAPID™ – One-Coat Moisture-Control System For Concrete to Receive ARDEX Underlayments.

SCHÖNOX:

SCHÖNOX AP – Synthetic Gypsum-Based, Self-Leveling Compound

SCHÖNOX APF – Synthetic Gypsum-Based, Fiber-reinforced, Self-leveling Compound

SCHÖNOX ZM – Cement-Based, Self-Leveling Compound

SCHÖNOX ZM RAPID – Rapid-Setting, Self-Leveling Compound

SCHÖNOX US – Cement-Based, Self-Leveling Compound SCHÖNOX EPA – Two-Part, Epoxy-Based, Moisture-Mitigation System.

[07] ACCLIMATION (FOR RADIANT HEAT SEE “IN-FLOOR RADIANT HEAT ACCLIMATION REQUIREMENTS” SECTION)

Acclimate planks (keep cartons flat), adhesive, job site, and subfloor to a stable condition between 65° to 80°F and 35% to 85% RH for a minimum of 48 hours before installation.

Installing flooring before it has properly acclimated will greatly increase the chances of expansion and contraction issues and may make it more difficult to install.

Do not deliver the flooring to the job site until all environmental conditions have been met.

Acclimate for a minimum of 48 hours in the temperature-controlled room it will be installed in.

Never cover the flooring before, during, or after installation with any type of plastic or tar paper. It must be allowed to breathe. Use only breathable floor-protective construction paper (FortiBoard) to protect the flooring.

Propane heaters are not an approved source of heat and can give off extreme amounts of moisture. They also do not provide a reliable and consistent source of heat. In fact, for every gallon of propane or kerosene that is burned, they both will put approximately 1.1 gallons of moisture into the ambient space. The manufacturer warranty will be void if the job site/ home heating and cooling system is not fully operational at the time of installation

[08] EXPANSION REQUIREMENTS

Leave the required  ¼” expansion gap around all walls, tubs/showers, plumbing fixtures, large SubZero-style refrigerators, exterior doors, etc.

Once the floor installation is complete, remove all spacers that were used to maintain the expansion gap.

[09] HOW TO PROTECT THE FLOOR DURING & AFTER INSTALLATION

After each section of flooring has been installed and thoroughly cleaned, cover the floor with breathable construction paper (FortiBoard). Do not apply the tape directly to the surface of the flooring. It may damage the finish.

During construction, vacuum the floor as often as it takes to keep the floor free of dirt and construction debris. Never use a beater brush.

If drywall repairs or any type of sanding is needed, thoroughly cover the floor. These types of dust and grit can damage the floor’s finish and are very difficult to remove if it gets into the joints. Do not wet mop these types of dust. Always use a vacuum without a beater brush to remove any construction dust if needed.

Before furniture goes onto the new floor, apply approved 3/16” thick heavy-duty felt pads under all furniture feet.

Furniture with metal, hard plastic rollers, or casters is NOT APPROVED for use on Dryback flooring.

Never roll or drag anything heavy over the new floor. It will make indentations or scratches on the surface. Always use a soft-tire dolly, a carpet piece turned upside down, or an air-sled when moving objects. Never use a steam mop as the temperature exceeds the temperature allowed for Dryback.

NOTE: BE SURE TO FOLLOW ALL GUIDELINES OUTLINED IN THE ADHESIVE MANUFACTURER INSTALLATION PROVIDED.  ALL BOND WARRANTIES FALL SOLELY UPON THE ADHESIVE MANUFACTURER.

IMPORTANT NOTES:

It is required and extremely critical to start the installation from a perfectly straight line that is squared to the room it is being installed into. Failing to adhere to this requirement will result in gaps in the short or long end of the plank. This condition is not a manufacturer defect and is not warranted.

If the installer finds the product not to be cut straight, then the installer is required to immediately stop the installation, find an acceptable solution, and then proceed with the installation.

Working off the longest straight wall, snap a chalk line parallel with the wall that is equal to the width of the wood flooring, plus enough room for the expansion gap. Use blocks of the flooring to maintain the proper expansion gap around all vertical objects coming off the floor (including walls). This will ensure a solid and straight platform to install the next rows against. Once the Dryback plank installation is complete, remove all spacers or blocks that were used to maintain the expansion gap.