[01] GENERAL JOBSITE/HOME CONDITION

ONLY INSTALL FLOORING IN ROOMS UNDER ADEQUATE LIGHTING CONDITIONS. TAKING THIS IMPORTANT STEP ALLOWS FOR GREATER VISIBILITY AND WILL HELP AVOID COSTLY INSTALLATION MISTAKES.

Important: The requirements listed below are considered standard practices for the flooring industry and are required by most building codes. Following these simple guidelines will greatly extend the life of any fixture in the job site/home. Local building codes may vary and will prevail.

The job site/homeowner’s designated installer is responsible for inspecting flooring prior to installation. Inspect every plank for inconsistency with the finish, texture, milling, color, graining, tongue and groove integrity, and dimensions. Also, check the suitability of the flooring product to its environment. Flooring products installed with pre-existing defects or incorrectly acclimated CANNOT be claimed after installation.

Verify there are enough materials to complete the job with a minimum of 2% extra for future plank replacements. The manufacturer is not responsible for supplying materials for plank replacements unless the defective boards exceed 5% of the total floor installed.

Drainage from roofs, rain gutters, and other sources of moisture around the job site/home must be directed away from the site. Moisture from these sources can severely damage the wood floor if it comes in contact with it.

All exterior doors, windows, drywall, painting, venting, heating, and cooling systems must be properly installed before the delivery of the wood flooring to the job site/home. Do not store wood in exterior sheds or garages that are not temperature-controlled.

To prevent excessive moisture buildup, all crawl spaces must have a minimum of 1.5 square feet of ventilation for every 100 square feet of crawl space at the exterior of the house for cross ventilation, or an air exchanger will be needed. It may be necessary to install temperature/humidity-activated exhaust fans to create air movement in the crawl space.

If there is a crawl space, make sure there is at least an 18” clearance from the dirt to the bottom of the beams. Remove all cardboard from the concrete walls, pillars, and footings, as it will trap and hold moisture. The entire crawl space must be covered with a minimum of 6 MIL plastic (puncture resistant) with all seams overlapped 18” and fully sealed with moisture-proof tape.

All heating and cooling systems are required to be installed and functioning for at least 14 days before the installation of the wood flooring begins.

Use a hygrometer that reads temperature and RH (relative humidity) to check job site/home heating and cooling systems. They must be able to maintain a minimum of 35 to 55% RH and 65 to 80°F before and during the flooring installation. Post installation, the temperature must be maintained between 60 to 80°F.

Small humidifiers are not capable of properly maintaining the humidity levels in large job sites/homes. Local heating and cooling air service contractors can provide information for automatic humidifiers/dehumidifiers that work with pre-existing heating and cooling systems.

Wood flooring must be acclimated in the temperature-controlled room it is being installed in. The amount of time it takes to properly acclimate wood flooring is determined by many variables such as the moisture content of the job site/home substrate, interior/exterior air temperature, and flooring material moisture content.

Wood flooring is not recommended to be installed in any area of the job site/home that has extreme temperature and moisture fluctuations. For example: saunas, hot tub/pool rooms, greenhouses, exterior porches, or garages. The manufacturer does not warrant these types of moisture-related issues or related damage under their warranty.

[02] IN-FLOOR RADIANT HEAT SYSTEMS RADIANT HEAT REQUIREMENTS FOR ENGINEERED WOOD

Visit www.my-nfp.com for the current list of products that are approved for in-floor radiant heat. There are unique installation requirements for flooring installed over radiant heat. Before

installation, it is the responsibility of the job site/homeowner’s designated installer to check with the manufacturer for a current list of approved installation methods and underlayment requirements.

Engineered wood flooring CANNOT be installed over in-floor radiant heat unless it is marked as approved for in-floor radiant heat. It is the job site/homeowner and installer’s responsibility to check with the manufacturer for a current list of approved wood products that are warranted for in-floor radiant heat installations.

Operate the in-floor radiant heat systems for at least 14 days before the wood flooring is installed. All moisture in the substrate must be evaporated off. This will also ensure all systems are in good running condition.

In-Floor Radiant Heat Systems: At no time during the life of the floor should the boiler setting exceed 110 degrees Fahrenheit, or the sub-floor surface temperatures never exceed 85 degrees Fahrenheit. It is recommended that the surface temperature stickers (heat sensors) be installed under the wood floor, directly over the in-floor radiant heat source for every 300 ft2 installed. These temperature stickers can be used to validate the surface temperature never exceeding 85 degrees.

A humidistat control system (humidifier) must be installed and properly functioning two weeks before, during, and after the installation for the life of the floor. This helps prevent checking or shrinkage caused by the loss of moisture from the in-floor radiant heat system.

The in-floor radiant heat systems CANNOT be installed directly below the wood flooring. It must be embedded at least 1/2” in the concrete, gypcrete, or installed under the wood subfloor. This will ensure the radiant heat is evenly distributed across the substrate before the heat comes into contact with the wood flooring

When installing engineered tongue and grooved flooring planks longer than 6ft (72in) over radiant heat, it is recommended to glue (wood glue) all end seams together on that row to reduce end joint gapping.

In-Floor Radiant Heat Moisture Retarder Requirements:

Be sure to only use moisture retarders that are approved for in-floor radiant heat systems. Check with local building codes and the manufacturer of the radiant heat systems for recommendations. Important: Do not use any moisture retarder that is oil or tar-based over any type of in-floor radiant heat substrate, unless it is marked suitable for radiant heat as these may give off toxic fumes.

Glued-down method: If the glue-down method is being used, follow the adhesive manufacturer’s installation guidelines. Make sure both the adhesive and moisture retarders are approved for in-floor radiant heat applications. Some brands of wood adhesive simplify this by having a moisture retarder built in. For example, TuffGrip adhesive has moisture retarder capability and when installed correctly, will easily do the job. Be sure to closely follow the sealant and adhesive manufacturer application procedures. All moisture protection and bond warranties come solely from the adhesive and sealant manufacturers.

Floating method: If the floating method is being used, properly cover the entire substrate with 6 Mil plastic with an approved quality underlayment padding installed over the top, or use an approved quality 2-in-1 or 3-in-1 underlayment pad with a moisture retarder built in. All seams must be fully sealed with moisture-proof tape. Be sure to follow the underlayment manufacturer’s installation guidelines.

Nail/Staple down method: If the nail/staple down method is being used, cover the entire substrate with AQUABAR “B” underlayment paper. Follow AQUABAR “B” guidelines for in-floor radiant heat installations.

IMPORTANT: Be extremely careful when nailing/stapling over radiant heating systems, as improper fasteners or usage of tools may pierce the subfloor, puncturing the heating element.

Turn In-Floor Radiant Heat On or Off During Installation

For glued-down wood floors, it is normally recommended to reduce or turn off the in-floor radiant heat to prevent the adhesive from curing too fast. After the installation is complete and all adhesives are cured, or at the onset of colder weather conditions, gradually raise the temperature to its normal operating level over five days. Never raise the temperature up or down more than five degrees in 24 hours. Important: Follow all of the adhesive and sealant manufacturer guidelines, trowel sizes, suggestions, and procedures.

[03] MOISTURE SPECS FOR ENGINEERED WOOD

Important: One of the leading causes of wood flooring failures is moisture level inconsistency and/or rapid swings in temperature on the job site/home. Wood flooring performs best when installed in a room with moisture levels in the air between 35 to 55% relative humidity, with air temperatures ranging between 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. The humidity level and temperature of the air will also greatly impact the performance life of your furniture, cabinets, doors, and trim work.

Due to wood’s unique grain structure and density, some moisture meters will not properly test all types of wood flooring. It is critical to use only approved moisture meters that have been properly calibrated for your particular wood flooring and environment. Inexpensive lumber testers are usually not adequate for testing wood flooring. These types of meters can give an inaccurate reading. Please contact a professional flooring installer to verify your moisture meter is approved for testing wood flooring. Follow the moisture meter manufacturer’s instructions on how to properly calibrate and use the meter. It is highly recommended that all moisture testing be documented with photographs.

HOW TO TEST MOISTURE CONTENT OF ENGINEERED WOOD FLOORING AND WOOD SUB-FLOORS:

Using an approved pin or electromagnetic moisture meter, test both the wood subfloor and wood flooring for moisture content labeled in percentages. The wood subfloor and wood flooring should test within the same ranges as the highlighted area on the EMC chart shown below (usually between 6 to 10%, but never exceeding 12% moisture content).

It is recommended to test multiple pieces of the wood flooring inside every box and every 100 ft2 of the wood subfloor. Pay special attention to exterior walls and areas around plumbing fixtures. Never install wood flooring on any wood subfloor that tests above 12% when using an approved meter.

Engineered wood flooring moisture content must be dried down to within 3% of sub-floor moisture content before installation begins (follow the EMC chart below).

If there are differences greater than 3% moisture content between the wood flooring and wood subfloor, check for possible sources of moisture from sources such as leaking plumbing fixtures or improper venting from the crawl space.

HOW TO READ THE EMC CHART:

Test the air for temperature and humidity levels in the room in which the flooring will be installed. The horizontal row on the top of the chart below is the humidity range. The vertical column on the far left is the temperature range. Where the two meet is what the general moisture content of your flooring should be. Important: This is only a guide and is subject to change. Please consult a flooring professional for proper installation

Accepted ranges for moisture content of wood subfloors & flooring.

HOW TO TEST CONCRETE SUBSTRATES FOR MOISTURE CONTENT:

There are two widely accepted methods for testing the moisture content of concrete, a Tramex Concrete Meter or a Calcium Chloride test.  Always follow the manufacturer’s instruction manual on how to properly use these methods.

Concrete substrates must be cured for a minimum of 60 days before flooring is ever installed.

When using the Calcium Chloride test, the maximum acceptable moisture content is 3lbs. per 1000 ft2 for a 24-hour period. One of these tests must be completed and documented for every 250 ft2 being covered with wood flooring. When using the Tramex Concrete moisture meter, the maximum acceptable moisture content is 4.5 using the upper scale.

HOW TO TEST GYPCRETE SUBSTRATES FOR MOISTURE CONTENT:

Gypcrete substrates must cure for a minimum of 60 days before flooring is ever installed.

For gypcrete substrates, relative humidity testing is the only acceptable way to measure moisture content. The ASTM F2170-11 standard must be followed. For more information visit RHSPEC.com

If the concrete or gypcrete substrates test above the maximum moisture content or RH levels, contact a flooring professional or visit NWFA.com for methods of how to reduce or control the moisture in the substrates.

[04] ACCLIMATION TIPS FOR ENGINEERED WOOD

Important: Wood flooring traditionally comes in two distinct construction types, solid and engineered. These different construction types can also be packaged and manufactured differently. Be sure to read the manufacturer’s installation guides inside each box for particular requirements on acclimation. The information below is only a general guide until you receive the actual boxes of wood.

General acclimation tips: When the moisture content of the substrate is documented and is acceptable for wood flooring, deliver the wood flooring to the job site/home. Test the wood flooring planks with an approved moisture meter. Write the wood flooring moisture content on the back of the planks, and then place the planks back in the box.  After 48 hours, check the planks to see if the moisture content is increasing or decreasing. Document these changes on the back of the planks. Repeat these steps until the wood planks have achieved an equilibrium point, neither gaining nor losing moisture. Once the engineered wood planks test within the acceptable range (within 3% of the substrate), they can then be installed.

Always acclimate the wood flooring in the temperature-controlled room it will be installed in.

Wide plank wood flooring generally takes longer to acclimate than narrower planks. Wide plank wood flooring has a greater chance of shrinkage or expansion issues if it is not properly acclimated.

Run a humidifier/dehumidifier as needed to maintain proper humidity levels. Keep relative humidity in the air between 35 to 55% for at least one week before the delivery of the wood flooring.

Wood flooring will usually acclimate while in the box if there is no plastic covering the wood flooring or the box. Some wood flooring products are wrapped in plastic to protect the materials from absorbing moisture in transit or storage. If the wood flooring or the box is wrapped in plastic, remove it. This will allow the wood flooring to acclimate properly.

Avoid loading wood flooring into the job site/home when it is raining. If the boxes of wood flooring get wet it can extend the amount of time it takes for the wood flooring to acclimate.

Never cover wood flooring before, during, or after installation with any type of plastic or tar paper. It must be allowed to breathe. Use only breathable materials like construction paper to protect a wood floor.

The boxes of wood flooring need to be elevated a minimum of 4” off the concrete substrate during the acclimation period.

Keep the stacked boxes/loose planks of wood flooring a minimum of 3” apart to allow air circulation around the boxes.

Installing wood flooring before it has properly acclimated will greatly increase the chances of checking, shrinkage, and/or squeaking and popping issues, and may void your warranty.

Depending on the environment, engineered wood floors can acclimate within 2-4 days.

A minimum of a 48-hour acclimation period is required.

Propane heaters are not an approved source of heat and can give off extreme amounts of moisture and do not provide a reliable and consistent source of heat. The manufacturer warranty will be void if the job site/home’s heating and cooling system is not fully operational at least two weeks before installation.

[05] APPROVED VAPOR RETARDERS FOR ENGINEERED WOOD

FLOATED ENGINEERED WOOD FLOORS: THERE ARE TWO DIFFERENT SYSTEMS FOR FLOATING APPLICATIONS.

Option #1 – Underlayment padding, usually referred to as 2-in-1 or the upgraded 3-in-1 underlayment, has a moisture retarder built in. Follow underlayment installation instructions.

Option #2 – 6 MIL plastic stretched over the entire substrate with seams overlapping a minimum of 6” and all seams fully taped with moisture-proof tape, then a basic underlayment pad is installed over the top of the plastic.

GLUED DOWN ENGINEERED WOOD FLOORS:

Use an approved, troweled-on, sealant or two-part epoxy coating that is compatible with the adhesive. Some brands of wood adhesive simplify this by having a moisture retarder built in. For example: the Taylor MS-Plus Advance adhesive has moisture blocker properties when installed correctly and will easily do the job. Be sure to closely follow the sealant and adhesive manufacturer application procedures. All moisture protection and bond warranties come solely from the adhesive and sealant manufacturers.

NAILED/STAPLED DOWN WOOD FLOORS: THERE ARE TWO DIFFERENT SYSTEMS FOR NAIL/STAPLE DOWN APPLICATIONS.

Option #1 – The easiest system to use is AQUABAR “B” underlayment paper. It is light, easy to install, and will not mark up the walls. Follow AQUABAR “B” installation instructions.

Option #2 – 15lb. roofing felt. Some restrictions may apply to this system. Be sure to follow all local building codes. Tape all seams with moisture-proof tape.

[06] APPROVED SUBSTRATES FOR ENGINEERED WOOD FLOORS:

3000 PSI CONCRETE, OSB/CHIPBOARD, PLYWOOD, PLANK SUB-FLOORING 3-1/14” AND UNDER

Cured concrete, minimum 3000 PSI, or cured gypcrete over 2500 PSI, must be free of any type of top coating, plaster, non-approved sealers, paints, or curing compounds.

Acceptable minimum wood subfloor thickness is determined by the distance between the joists/trusses.

When joists are 16” o/c or less; the minimum acceptable thickness is 5/8” CDX plywood or nominal 3/4”, OSB 40 lb. Minimum density, T&G, with a TECO or APA certification stamp.

When joists are 16” o/c up to 19.2” o/c; the minimum acceptable thickness is 3/4” plywood or nominal 3/4”, OSB 40lb. Minimum density, T&G, with a TECO or APA certification stamp.

When joists are 19.2” o/c up to 24” o/c; the minimum acceptable thickness is 7/8” plywood or nominal 1”, OSB 40lb. Minimum density, T&G, with a TECO or APA certification stamp.

Wood plank sub-flooring under 3-1/4” wide. It must be properly installed with vertical deflection under 1/4” over a 6’ span. Important: Do not glue any wood flooring down over a wood plank subfloor. If the wood planking has lippage or any type of crowning or buckling, it must be sanded smooth and CANNOT have any dips or rises exceeding 3/16” over 10’ or 1/8” over 6’. If there is, and it was not corrected before the wood installation, the manufacturer warranty will be void.

Important: Never fasten or glue wood flooring down over particle board subfloors. Either remove the particle board or install new 5/8” thick plywood over the particle board. Install the new wood floor over the new plywood. The only install method that can be used directly over particle board is the engineered floating method, as long as there are no current or future moisture concerns from below or above. If moisture comes in contact with the particle board it will swell and void the manufacturer warranty.

[08] APPROVED INSTALLATION METHODS FOR ENGINEERED WOOD T&G FLOORING

Most engineered wood floors can be installed using the nail/staple/glue down, or floating installation methods.

NAIL/STAPLE DOWN METHOD:

Never nail/staple down, or fasten flooring over the top of any underlayment pad, cushion, or foam.

Approved fasteners to nail/staple down engineered wood floors up to 9/16” thick:

Staples, 1/4” crown,18 Gauge, minimum 1-1/2” long.

Cleats, “T” or “L”, 18 Gauge, minimum 1-1/2” long.

When nailing/stapling down a wood floor, fastener spacing needs to be 1-1/2” from the ends of the plank and every 3”- 4” along the tongue. Fasten a minimum of two fasteners into every plank shorter than 10”.

Adjusting the head of the fastener tool and/or air pressure will ensure the fastener is not set too deep or too high in the tongue. Failing to do so will create a loose, squeaky floor. Be careful not to break the tongue. If the tongue is broken during installation, replace the plank.

When nailing/stapling down wood flooring, leave at least 1/4” expansion gaps around every row end, and 1/2” expansion gaps around the row widths.

If the groove side exhibits excessive up/down movement, it will be necessary to use the glue-down method. If the flooring is installed with this condition, the manufacturer’s warranty may be void.

Working off the longest straight wall, snap a chalk line parallel with the wall that is equal to the width of the wood flooring, plus enough room for the expansion gap. Use blocks of the flooring to maintain the proper expansion gap around all vertical objects coming off the floor (including walls). Keeping the tongue facing out, nail/staple down the first row while using the snapped line as a guide. This will ensure a solid and straight platform to install the next rows against. Once the wood floor installation is complete, remove all spacers or blocks that were used to maintain the expansion gap.

Clean the nailer/stapler base plate regularly to ensure it does not damage the finish of the flooring.

GLUE DOWN METHOD:

Use only urethane-based adhesives approved for wood flooring. Never use any water-based adhesives. (Approved adhesives: Taylor MS-Plus, Bostik’s Best, Dri-Tac 7600, Parabond 4002, and Sika Bond T55). All adhesive bond warranties come solely from the adhesive manufacturer. Follow all adhesive manufacturer guidelines, trowel sizes, and suggestions. Most flooring manufacturers require that the adhesive is adhered to a minimum of 98% of the bottom of the wood flooring. Periodically check to make sure the trowel notches are clean and are not worn out.

Verify with the adhesive manufacturer to make sure the job site/home substrate is approved with their adhesives.

When gluing over concrete or gypcrete substrates, remove any concrete sealers, paint, dust, or drywall compound.

Follow adhesive manufacturer guidelines on alkalinity levels on concrete or gypcrete surfaces.

During the wood installation, roll the new floor with a soft 100-150lb. roller while the adhesive is still active, and again within 45-60 minutes.

Use only green/blue 3M/Scotch tape model #2080, or (preferably) a flooring clamp system to hold the engineered wood floor together while the adhesive is drying for a minimum of one hour. Remove the tape within 6 hours to avoid damage to the finish. Allow the adhesive to dry 24 hours before heavy traffic begins. Never apply duct tape or packing tape directly to the surface of the wood finish. These tapes can damage the finish.

Leave at least a 1/4” expansion gap around every row end and a 1/2” expansion gap around the row widths.

Glue the floor down working off the longest straight wall. Keep the tongues facing out. Use blocks of wood to keep the proper expansion gap around all vertical objects coming off the floor. Snap a chalk line parallel with the wall that is the width of the wood flooring, plus enough room for the expansion gap. Glue 3-5 rows down to the substrate using the line as a guide. Keep the planks tight using a clamp system and/or 2” green/blue 3M tape. Allow the first rows to dry for a minimum of one hour before installing successive rows. This will ensure a solid and straight platform to install up against for the next rows. When the wood floor installation is completed, remove all spacers or blocks that were used to maintain the expansion gap.

Clean all adhesive residue off the wood floor before it dries. Removing dried adhesive from the top of the wood surface may damage the finish. Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s guidelines on adhesive removers.

NEVER INSTALL CABINETRY, ISLANDS, OR OTHER PERMANENT FIXTURES ON TOP OF A FLOATED FLOOR. NEVER USE NAILS TO SECURE ANYTHING TO THE FLOOR. THE FLOOR MUST BE ALLOWED TO FLOAT.

FLOATING METHOD (T&G GLUE):

For T&G glued together floated engineered flooring, transition strips/breaks are required every 40 feet (lengthwise), every 30 feet (widthwise), and at each doorway.

If the wood flooring has a tongue and groove and it is being floated, only use NFP Premium PVA (Poly Vinyl Acetate) Wood Glue (SKU# 72 PWA). This glue is non-toxic.

Glue the upper inside portion of the grooves with a 3/16” bead. Always apply glue to the groove, not the tongue. To avoid plank separation do not over-apply glue. Pull boards apart at random intervals to make sure there is 98% glue coverage on the tongue. When using the floating method, stagger seams 12”-15”.

Working off the longest straight wall, snap a chalk line parallel with the wall that is equal to the width of the wood flooring, plus enough room for the expansion gap. Use blocks of the flooring to maintain the proper 1/2” expansion gap around all vertical objects coming off the floor (including walls). Keeping the tongue facing out, glue three to five rows together while using the snapped line as a guide. Keep the planks tight with a clamp system and/or green/blue 3M/Scotch tape model #2080. Clean all glue residue off the wood floor before it dries. Allow the first rows to dry for a minimum of one hour before installing the next rows. This will ensure a solid and straight platform to install the next rows against. Once the wood floor installation is complete, remove all spacers or blacks that were used to maintain the expansion gap.

Remove any excess glue as you are installing the wood floor with warm soapy water on a clean terry cloth rag, and then dry immediately. Do not let the glue dry on the surface of the wood flooring. Removing glue after it has dried (even partially) may damage the wood’s finish.

Use only green/blue 3M/Scotch tape model #2080 or (preferably) a flooring clamp system to hold the wood flooring together while the glue is drying for a minimum of one hour. Remove the tape within 6 hours to avoid damage to the finish. Allow the glue to dry 24 hours before heavy traffic begins. Never apply duct tape or packing tape directly to the surface of the finish. These tapes can damage the wood’s finish.

[9] INSTALLATION GUIDELINES

Before installation begins, use a jamb saw to undercut all door casings and vertical objects coming off the floor. To achieve the correct height, combine a piece of the underlayment padding and wood flooring to use as a guide for the saw. Be sure to clean out all debris from under the jambs. This will allow the flooring to slide underneath the object for a clean professional look.

When installing wood floors, try to avoid installing short boards in the middle of the floor. Use these boards for closets, under appliances, and starter/end cuts.

When ready to install, open up and work with at least five boxes at a time. Check for any defects and thoroughly mix the planks to avoid groupings of similar colors, sizes, and graining. Be sure to stack the planks on a flat surface to reduce plank warping.

Plank flooring generally shows fewer seams and imperfections if it is installed lengthwise into the light.

Avoid “H-Seams” in the wood flooring for cosmetic and structural reasons. “H-Seams” are when two wood flooring end joints are laid parallel to each other within three rows.

Stagger end joints more than 6” from each other for both cosmetic and structural reasons.

The room will seem longer whichever direction the wood flooring is laid lengthwise.

[10] HOW MUCH WASTE IS GOING TO BE INCURRED?

The waste factors below are only a guide. Jobsite/home conditions and personal taste may vary. Always inspect every plank before installation. When practical, use cut pieces with at least one factory end joint to reduce waste. The recommended waste factor for first-quality flooring products is 5% of the total job.

Important: Adding additional materials to the total square footage of the entire job can allow you to

be more selective with the actual wood flooring that is installed. The additional waste factors below are only recommendations. If you are concerned about:

Color or graining: add 2-4%

Board lengths: add 1-2%

Small, cut-up rooms with lots of vertical objects: add an add 1-2%

Installing on a diagonal: add 5-10%

11] INSTALLATION TIPS FOR HOW TO IMPROVE THE LOOK OF YOUR WOOD FLOOR

Important: Install your wood floor under good lighting conditions. Examine each plank carefully. Contact the dealer immediately if the material is not acceptable. Materials installed with visible defects are not covered under warranty. The manufacturer will not assume any responsibility for installed materials.

To avoid trims not matching the shade or graining of the floor, match wood planks up to the trims before installation begins and set those pieces aside. Install these trims up against the matching wood planks.